EP1705273A2

EP1705273A2 - Textile fabrics for clothing

Info

Publication number: EP1705273A2
Application number: EP06111098A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Roberto Bernasconi
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2005-03-25
Filing date: 2006-03-14
Publication date: 2006-09-27
Also published as: ITTO20050193A1; EP1705273A3

Abstract

The present invention concerns textile fabrics for clothing, manufactured using the traditional technique of orthogonal weaving, with yarns having different yarn count in the warp and/or in the weft.

Description

The present invention concerns textile fabrics for clothing. Textile fabrics or cloth according to the present invention are manufactured employing the traditional technique of orthogonal weaving, that is by interlacing weft threads with warp threads employing normal looms.
The present invention has as its purpose to provide textile fabrics with new and original characteristics, in particular with regard to the visual appearance and the tactile sensation to the touch (the so-called "handle").
According to the present invention, this purpose is achieved thanks to a textile fabric having the characteristics described in detail in the attached claims. In particular, this purpose is achieved through the use in weaving the fabric of yarns having very different yarn counts one from another in the warp and/or the weft.
The claims form an integral part of the technical instruction provided here in regard to the invention.
The invention will now be described, as a simple example and without limiting intent, with reference to the attached drawings, in which:

-- figure 1 shows in diagram form a fabric according to the present invention;
-- figure 2 shows in diagram form a second fabric according to the present invention.

The fabric according to the present invention is woven on a loom, interlacing the weft threads with the warp threads according to a specific order and criterion. The technique that is used is normally that of the double, triple or quadruple beam, whereby one beam is used for the fine threads and one or more supplementary beams are used for the coarse threads.
In the sphere of the present invention, by the term "thread" is meant a structure that presents a principal direction of extension. A thread according to the present invention may for example be a yarn or a ribbon-like structure, that from the geometric standpoint is in the form of a solid with generally small section, cylindrical, parallelogram or again substantially flat and of indeterminate length. A thread that can be used in the present invention may be any type of yarn whose characteristics of flexibility, elasticity and strength enable it to be employed industrially on a loom. A thread that can be utilised in the present invention may be a simple yarn, a twisted or fancy yarn (for example bouclé, crepe, in spiral form, etc.) voluminised or texturised, constituted of fibres of silk, wool, linen, cotton, artificial or synthetic material, or again ribbon-like structures such as ribbons, lace, trimmings or structures consisting of woven or metallic structures, etc.
The textile fabrics according to the present invention present as their characterising element the use in the warp and/or weft of yarns having yarn count very different one from another and a number of threads per centimetre that is equally variable. In this way they generate in the user a particular and innovative visual and tactile sensation.
In particular, the fabric for clothing according to the present invention is produced with fine and coarse yarns in the warp and/or weft, in which the difference in count between the finest yarn among the fine yarns and the coarsest yarn among the coarse yarns present in the same warp and/or in the same weave is above 3000 Dtex, and preferably above 6000 Dtex.
In general, the fine yarns present a yarn count between 15 and 120 Dtex, the count preferably being between 15 and 80 Dtex, more preferably the fine yarns present a yarn count between 15 and 50 Dtex.
The coarse yarns, in general, present a yarn count between 1000 and 8000 Dtex, preferably the count is between 1000 and 20,000 Dtex, more preferably the yarn count is between 1000 and 35,000 Dtex.
The fabric according to the present invention presents a number of threads per centimetre, both in the weft and in the warp, that is variable and that depends on the visual and tactile effect that it is intended to produce.
In general, the number of threads per centimetre is within the range between 2 and 100 threads/cm, more preferably it is within the range between 2 and 64 threads/cm, even more preferably it is between 2 and 48 threads/cm.
The number of threads per centimetre may be the same or different in the warp and in the weft; preferably, in the warp there are between 2 and 100 threads/cm, even more preferably between 2 and 48 threads/cm. In the weft preferably there are between 2 and 100 wefts/cm, even more preferably between 2 and 48 wefts/cm.
The textile fabrics according to the present invention may present portions both in the weft and in the warp that are denser in fine yarns and other portions that are denser in coarse yarns, as well as alternating fine yarns and coarse yarns according to a precise pattern or a free pattern.
In the figures, the woven fabric according to the present invention is indicated overall with 1. Reference 2 indicates the threads/yarns in the warp, whereas reference 3 indicates the threads/yarns in the weft.
Figure 1 shows a fabric that presents a great variety in the yarns used, both in the warp and in the weft; the effect obtained is that of a fabric made as a double layer, one made with fine threads and wefts and the other with coarse threads and wefts, connected together at some points following a predetermined pattern. In the weft yarns 31 of mohair wool have been used with yarn count 1150 Dtex, yarns 32 and 33 with yarn count 8000 Dtex and 3100 Dtex essentially comprising laces of different compositions, ribbons 35 with yarn count 5500 Dtex, and yarns 34 of bouclé silk with a yarn count of 6400 Dtex, as well as fine background yarns 36 in silk of 45 Dtex. In the warp the yarn 24 used as background is of silk with yarn count 45 Dtex, the threads 21 are of bouclé silk of 1650 Dtex, fancy threads 22 with yarn count 4500 Dtex, fancy threads 23 with yarn count 4000 Dtex.
Figure 2 shows a repeated geometric pattern, which comprises an almost constant alternation of different threads such as to give rise to a generic chequered structure. In the warp, for example, there are yarns 210 essentially comprising silk or synthetic material with very low yarn count, equal to approximately 15 Dtex, together with bouclé yarns 220 with yarn count 2570 Dtex, ribbons of tulle 230 having a yarn count of 3500 Dtex, fancy yarns 250 with yarn count 2050 Dtex, and again twisted bicolour yarns with count 2570 Dtex. In the weft there are yarns 340 essentially comprising silk or synthetic material with very low count, equal to approximately 15 Dtex, together with bouclé yarns 310 with yarn count 4980 Dtex, tulle ribbons 320 with yarn count 2900 Dtex.
Naturally, the principle of the invention holding good, the details of its realisation and the embodiments can vary widely from what is described and illustrated here without thereby departing from the scope of the present invention as defined in the attached claims.

Claims

Textile fabric characterised in that it includes fine yarns with low yarn count and coarse yarns with high yarn count woven in the warp and/or weft.
Textile fabric according to claim 1, characterised in that the difference in count between the finest yarn among the fine yarns and the coarsest yarn among the coarse yarns present in the same warp and/or in the same weave is above 3000 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to claim 2, characterised in that the difference in yarn count between the finest yarn among the fine yarns and the coarsest yarn among the coarse yarns present in the same warp and/or in the same weave is above 6000 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the fine yarns present a yarn count between 15 and 120 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the coarse yarns present a yarn count between 1000 and 35,000 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the fine yarns present a yarn count between 15 and 80 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the fine yarns present a yarn count between 15 and 50 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the coarse yarns present a yarn count between 1000 and 8000 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that the coarse yarns present a yarn count between 1000 and 20,000 Dtex.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that it presents a number of threads per centimetre between 2 and 100 threads/cm.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that it presents a number of threads per centimetre between 2 and 64 threads/cm.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that it presents a number of threads per centimetre between 2 and 48 threads/cm.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that said fabric is manufactured with fine and coarse yarns in the warp.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that said fabric is manufactured with fine and coarse threads in the warp and in the weft generally made with the double, triple or quadruple chain technique.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that said coarse yarns are, at least in part, ribbon-like.
Textile fabric according to any of the above claims, characterised in that said coarse yarns are, at least in part, constituted of woven structures.